2002 Dodge B3500 starting problem

recently I came across a Nice little problem.
History : None
Existing issues : none related to No-Start

I statrted the repairs on this vehicle based on the complaint of brake pedal sinking to floor
and noise in front end in turns
the diagnosis found normal wear in the front brakes - repair required
loose ball joint on the right lower
leaking fluid from brake RWAL valve and proportioning valve
and weakend Masterclinder
Parts had to be ordered and would take several days to recieve at the shop
(holiday) - Truck sat in shop prepared for new parts arrival for 4 days

the customer aggreed to fix all -excluding the master cylinder
the brake system was restored to working condition (master sylinder was holding pressure)
after the repairs were completed I found that one of the rear interior lights had been left on
and it had drained the battery down to nothing
With a Battery jump pack the vehicle started and ran fine and all repairs were varified
with all of this in mind, The customer was set to pick the Van up the following morning

I set a battery charging to do a trickle charge (2amp) overnight so as to not have an issue
when the customer arrived

The morning showed up and the Van would not start. I checked through all available info on
reset procedures for the PCM but found nothing related to the vehicles condition.

I decided to approach the van with a new outlook - No start condition

Cranking fine, tested Spark, Fuel injection pulse, fuel pressure all came back as Normal

Scan tool showed cranking signal, no current codes, no pending codes. Everything looked normal in datastream.

Called a buddy of mine at another shop. I needed someone to bounce Ideas off of. After discussing exactly what I had already done and what results came of those tests.
He suggesested that I test the battery and see if maybe it had a Dead Cell.

That test showed the battery in perfect condition with full voltage and CCA's
then he said that maybe the PCM got alittle screwed up by the trickle charge
(long shot -cause no issues showed during testing the Van and looking through Datastream)
..but by disconecting the battery and touching the positive and negative terminals together
to drain all power from the PCM itself - It reset and the van started right up with no
probelms at all

I varified that no codes were stored again and the issue was gone


Just as a suggestion to all Auto techs - When having to fully charge a Chrysler Product I would recommend removal of the battery from the vahicle prior to hooking up a battery charger
for any extended period of time

The Problem with Intermittent Problems

As a Mechanic I see a mulititude of problems regularly. The ones that usually give the most problems in finding a quick proper repair are the problems that don't happen consistently.

Example - 1994 Ford E150 5.8L Conversion van
Intermittent stalling and power loss while at Idle, and under load

This Van has been having problems like this for some time, I have seen it on multiple
occasions and have come up with mechanical problems to fix.
But this underlying Intemittent stalling issue still haunts this van.

Short History- I have been doing regular scheduled repairs aswell as
repairing any other faults that have risen over the past
9 years. The Van has been maintained very well and
there is no evidence that the van is abused in any way.
Engine repairs done recently include ; Fuel Sytem cleaning
(Full Injector Load), Spark plugs, Ignition cables, Dist.Cap,
rotor button, IAC valve, butterfly return spring, intake
decarbonizing, EGR cleaning and various Maintenance items
(belt,hoses etc.)

These types of Intermittent issues don't seem to be more or less common on any
type of vehicle. Age of the vehicle doesn't change wether or not your vehicle will get an
intermittent problem, but these things happen.

Be aware that most mechanics enjoy working on these vehicles. Challenges are
nice to have sometimes, but also be aware that Alot of shops cannot afford
to have a vehicle sitting in the Bay and not being charged for it.

All and All what you as a Car driver and Me as a Mechanic have to see Eye to Eye
on is that your car has turned into a Semi-demon Child. Basic Cost of testing and extended
times without this car are a Harsh fact and it isn't mine or your fault.

A Mechanic once told me

"We didn't make it, break it, design it or buy it .... Were just here to Fix it"

So remember that when your cars radio turns off and on when you hit a bump
or your car drives perfect until you stop at McDonalds to get a McChicken on your
way home from work. Remember it also when everytime it rains the turn signals
work the wrong side lights, maybe the electronic seat controls work for you fine
but don't work at all for your wife.

(all of these I have heard personally, and Diagnosed)

Intermittent problems Suck for you and they can Suck for the Machanic
trying to fix them ....... but only if you don't give them the proper time
to diagnose and repair

-- Lastly --

If the Car only Messes up when your wife/GF/son/daughter/husband/father drives it
Then let THEM bring it to a shop to explain the problem